Thursday, June 15, 2017

Dublin to Kilmore Quay, and Kinsale

Tom Jones once sang 'The Green green grass of home ' about Wales, but it could have been about Ireland in its entirety. Not only the grass, but the fabulous alleys of trees lining the narrow country lanes,  which so often seem to lean towards each other to touch and form a natural tunnel of lush green foliage. It would be extremely restful if it weren't for the many lunatic locals who evidently feel they know the roads so well they can use them as racetracks! 

 
The trip to tiny Kilmore Quay led us through the rolling hills and the pleasant valleys of the Wicklow Mountains. Lovely! First stop a magnificent park, Glendalough, a tranquil monastic site and beautiful ancient churchyard with extensive, mystical views of 'the Valley of the two lakes'. I just love browsing round churchyards  and reading the gravestones. So many parents lost so many of their children. Heartbreaking. 
 

The Avoca Valley was gorgeous. Here a plaque at the meeting of the two rivers. There was a lot of poetry around. I really enjoy this aspect of Ireland too.
 The poet does seem a bit obsessed with the 'bosom' 😀

Somehow, just at the end of the day we seem to hit the tiniest of country lanes, meet tractors on blind corners and despite a GPS we always seem to have problems finding our accommodation!

Our first night on the road and we had a beautiful B and B in a modernised farm house. Huge living room and an incredibly well cared- for garden. Immaculate actually, as are most of the gardens we have passed. Perhaps it is the cooler , damper weather which gives the feeling of every garden being beautiful!

The reason for stopping at Kilmore Quay was that it is well known for its many thatched houses. It certainly had a lot of them, and many looked as if they had just received a new haircut! Note the number of NZ cabbage trees in the picture. Poor people, they do not realise perhaps how difficult they are to get rid of, and how much they shed their leaves, which do not decompose.  They look great in their prime but later look scrappy.
 

After a massive Irish cooked breakfast with delicious Irish bacon and eggs and soda bread, we set off towards Kinsale, the starting point of the Wild Atlantic Way, a 2500 km route around the magnificent coastline. Apparently, according to a local I chatted to, it has been in existence for a long time, but the Irish tourist offices now sell Ireland by using spectacular photos of this incredible route and like New Zealand, Ireland is now overrun by tourists!

Our first stop was Tintern Abbey, and what an introduction to Irish abbeys that was. It was founded in c. 1200 and was used as an abbey for centuries until it became a family home and was used as such until the 1950s. Amazing as you look at it to think people were still living there so recently.

 

So here we are at the first beach along the Atlantic Way. Fantastic sandy beach , but rather chilly water.
 Our lovely bed and breakfast was up on the hill, with fabulous views over the bay and The Old Head peninsula.
 
Our BMW was thankfully still in one piece after the first day! I have to admit that I was extremely anxious on many occasions and still struggle with the width of this car, and the cost of repair! On the positive side, it is very comfortable and pretty easy to drive - if only they would widen the lanes!

We drove across to the peninsula where we had the first of what was to be many delicious fish meals. You can be guaranteed the freshest fish everywhere you go. Prices and service are also great. The Speckled Door, this colourful, not to be missed and cannot be missed restaurant, was brilliant!
 
Theview at the back of the restaurant was amazing too!
 
Yet another cabbage tree! Still in its prime!

We had a great morning in Kinsale, which dates back about 8 centuries.  What a gloriously colourful place it is, just as all the guide books told me it was.

 

Though sometimes a little over the top! 
 
We were really lucky to be there on their market day. There were only a handful of stalls but they were selling absolutely fantastic homemade produce. Who says the Brits can't cook?

 
The whole place was simply delightful. I can certainly imagine spending some more time there one day.
 

The signs everywhere were very special and added to the overall ambience of this quaint little seaside town
 
I learnt my first, probably most important Gaelic word today, although I am not sure how it is pronounced.

 

A fantastic start to what I know is going to be a fabulous trip with Trudi through Ireland.
 
How very true. Let's go!

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