Saturday, October 28, 2017

Leaving Switzerland and homecoming

So the final days had come and with them lots of time with very special friends, who I will miss a lot, but with technology's help, it will be fine. Strangely enough, I discovered some wonderful new places in Zurich thanks to a walk along the Limmat river with Marco. It was so peaceful, hard to imagine  we were in such a busy city. 

After a wonderful final week and with the knowledge that my bags were packed and room cleared, , it was time to enjoy a final glass of New Zealand wine in Trudi's beautiful conservatory with its spectacular views over the mountains and green hills of Zurich Oberland. How grateful I am that I can stay there. 


An early start at the airport, but waiting made easy thanks to the company of Marco and Dennis. It is true ' Parting is such  sweet sorrow'. However, as I said farewell , there was also the knowledge that I would soon be home seeing Mark and David again. I had been away a long time!


Brilliant flights. The stopover with hotel for six hours, two hours at the pool and then the Butterfly garden was fantastic as always!

And before I knew it, I was leaving the customs clearance area, with its xray machines and cute little sniffer dogs, and exiting into Christchurch to see Mark again. Fantastic. He looks great! Can't wait to see David too next week.
It was marvelous to get home and out into the garden with the last signs of spring n the very centre of it.

What a great first evening having dinner with Matk and seeing Emma and my grand kitten, Stormy, again. He has grown a lot and is now a very striking teenager!

 Emma looked great too, but stupidly I did not take any photos of her and Mark! Next time.

It was a busy week moving back in to my home. Lots to do in the garden, but I have already done heaps. I did get woken up on the second day by a a short, sharp, shallow earthquake( Mark didn't notice it),  just reminding me that the earth is still moving below us. All good, though. The house now looks like home again since I brought back my stuff from the garage, and the weather has been perfect. Next week I will start to catch up with friends again.

Today, I had a brilliant day in Christchurch. After a working morning in the garden, I headed to one of my favourite Saturday morning spots, Riccarton House Farmers' Market. It is such a restful place despite having so many visitors. The food and all products they sell there are local and of a high quality, but what makes it so special are the surroundings, a park full of hundred- year- old English trees, and tucked in behind them, the last Christchurch remnant of native forest with its beautiful walkway. Add to this, music on the lawn, with the musician in the shade of a magnificent tree surrounded by bluebells, whilst the audience relax, savour the market produce and even dance with complete strangers. Simply wonderful!

I was on my way to the Pink Star Walk, a walk to raise money for breast cancer research, in another of my favourite places, Hagley Park.

I decided to walk through the park to the Botanical Gardens. It was stunning. The fresh green spring growth was so intense and the bird song almost deafening. 


The Botanical Gardens were a treat. I am so lucky to have enjoyed two springs and two autumns in the last year! Some rhododendrums were past their best, but the azaleas were still magnificent and very fragrant.

I headed towards the Arts Centre to see what progress had been made. The museum has a fabulous new mural - a moa ( sadly extinct) and a kiwi. 

They are making good, yet slow progress with the Arts Centre. Each time I go home, a new part has reopened. However, the clocks cannot be relied upon to provide accurate information. It was actually 14.20! I sat beneath the clocks at my favourite cafe, The Bunsen,  and watched the people walking past. Everyone seemed so contented, relaxed and not a cigarette or a cellphone was in sight . Really great to see!

Time to go and help out with registration for the walks, 5 and 21 km. It was one of the most enjoyable afternoons imagineable. Next year I hope I can do the registration and then join the 5 km walk at 18.30. The atmosphere was amazing. There were babies, toddlers in pushchairs or on bikes, teenagers wearing pink and with wigs and wings ( even young boys!) , oldies in wheelchairs and others of all ages, all shapes and sizes. The one thing they all had in common was that they were there to support breast cancer research and to have a wonderful time with friend and families, walking around this gorgeous park in the centre of the city in mild evening temperatures.  

I didn't mention the dozens of dogs, big and small, most of which also wore pink. In fact, there were some incredible human and dog outfits. There was a carnival atmosphere as they headed to the start line.

A marvelous day nd great first week.

Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Pfaeffikon and The Three Lakes

It was fitting that lakes played a huge part in my final week in Switzerland considering that I had had such a special relationship with the spectacular Pfaeffikersee! Always at its best at sunset.

Although Pfaeffikon is constantly changing with some fairly ugly appartment blocks going up, as long as one looks towards the lake and the mountains, time stands still. How wonderful to once again sit by the lakeside, as I had done hundreds of times before, watching people of all ages passing by , all totally enthralled by the gorgeous view. I took my book down with me to read, whilst waiting for my friends Carmen and Curt, but it would have been a crying shame not to give my full attention to the last glorious rays of sunshine creating masterpieces of art in reflections in the water.

After a great evening out with good friends and delicious pizza, it was an early start today to spend the day with my school friend Jonathan whom I met up with in Biel/Bienne, an interesting town right on the borders of the French and German parts of Switzerland. It was a wonderful day on the boat on three different lakes linked by canals. The little towns and villages along the way were very picturesque


And the vineyards clinging to the hillsides of The Jura with their autumnal colours were really beautiful. We enjoyed a small bottle of local white wine on the top deck of the boat, with fabulous scenery, silky smooth waters, wonderfully pleasant temperatures and an incredible cloudless blue sky! 

After several restful hours on the boat we had time for a quick visit to the pretty little medieval town of Murten

 followed by a meal of fish and chips overlooking the lake and boat.

After another short boat trip we landed at Neichatel, new castle, where the castle  is anything but new, actually dating back to the twelfth century.

Unfortunately, we could not look inside the buildings but the courtyard itself was very impressive and extremely colourful and beautifully decorated.
The cathedral next door is huge, but half of it is being renovated and closed off.  The other half looked magical with the coloured rays from the  stained glass lighting up the grey pillars

A super day catching up with an old friend and at the same time seeing something new. 

Monday, October 16, 2017

Back home in Russikon/ Pfaeffikon

Much as I adore travelling, it is wonderful to wake up in a place one knows, with familiar surroundings and simply stunning views. The early morning mist over the Pfaeffikon Lake is a typical autumnal event, as are the brilliantly clear skies, crisp morning air and mountains which seem closer than usual. Gorgeous!

I had not actually made it down to the lake I love so much, but on Sunday I thoroghly enjoyed a walk around it with my good friend Marc. Of course, I could not pass my favourite  tree without taking a photo of it - simply gold!

It was not as busy around the lake as I had feared. Perhaps everyone thought it would be heaving and stayed away. Or, they went directly to the Jucker Farm for lunch. I have never seen so many people there! Weekend, perfect weather, the Pumpkin Exhibition and some appetising food certainly draw the throngs. 

The pumpkin exhibits were brilliant, as always, though perhaps there were fewer of them . This carved pumpkin was incredible. From the front it was hardly recognisible as a pumpkin, but from the back you could see how it had been hollowed out. It was fabulous to have the day with Marc, who travels around Switzerland a great deal and so is hard to catch!

The pumpkin animals were marvelous. I loved this beautifully colourful squirrel.

The stag was majestic too, but the background scenery stole the show a little!

Back at Pfaeffikon, we enjoyed a drink by the lakeside, almost dazzled by the stunning colours of the nearby trees. I stayed on after Marc had to leave to just sit and admire this place I had called home for 8 years. 

A day with Irene is always very special and today we went to a place which was one of her favourites and which I had never visited before. Chaeserugg in Toggenburg. I have seen the mountains dozens of times from the train , en route to Zuoz, but always from the other side of the lake. This was a truly breathtaking place, although being the coward I am when it comes to heights, I did not venture too close to the edge, with its 1800 metre drop down to the Walensee.

The Walensee has always captivated me. I have been past it in the train so many times, been on it several times on a boat and this August Dennis and I watched Saturday Night Fever at the lakeside. However you see this lake, the deepest in Switzerland, it is spectacular! And the dozens of smow- capped peaks in the distance just add to its splendour. One can even see the peaks near St Moritz, especially on such a perfect day as this one.

The panorama is incredible and the contrast of colours fantastic. Having a scattering of snow just added to this beautiful view. It was still hard to imagine that in two months the slopes would be full of skiers rather than walkers.

Mind you, the plateau on the left is also a winter walking track as well as a cross country ski area. How nobody slips off the side, I do not know? The track is very close to the edge and there are no fences. My heart was in my mouth as I watched children leaping around near the edge and people having their photos taken, perched on the ledges. 

This view is the first one has as one arrives at the top. Spectacular, isn't it? A lot of people were climbing to the top. It must have been sensational.

After lots of train and bus changes, it was great to get home and sit with a cool glass of New Zealand wine in Trudi's garden, watching the sun set over some of the many fabulous mountain peaks I had seen today.

Another perfect day in paradise.

Friday, October 13, 2017

The Engadine in all its autumnal glory!


It was a fleeting visit to Basel, but it was great to catch up with Antoinette, thanks to whom I have my Ipad and hence my Blog! Whilst sitting discussing my final days in Switzerland, we came up with what was the most perfect spontaneous decision I have made on this entire European trip! A two- day trip to the Engadine with a night's accommodation in the beautiful Val de Bever at a pretty little hotel there in Spinas. 

It is the only accommodation in Spinas, accessible on foot, by horse and carriage or by the occasional train. It is a place I have often said I would like to stay but thought it would be ridiculously priced. What a pleasant surprise. 65 francs with breakfast for a cute little single room on the top floor,

 with balcony and stunning view

 and breakfast!
I opted to walk up to the hotel, a steady climb but pretty easy, though with tired legs and fast- approaching, very chilly dusk, I put my foot down and arrived rather shattered! The train passed me just minutes from the hotel, but I am pleased I walked as the colours and the atmosphere of the place were enchanting.

I did stop to try to phathom out this sign, but apart from giving way to cows, I cannot see any logical significance, especially as I had not seen a single cow in the entire valley!

The end of a perfect day. The Engadine is certainly my favourite place in autumn in Switzerland, ( judging by the crowds on the packed train, I am not alone) on a par with  Wanaka in New Zealand.where the intensity of autumn colours is the same and the contrast of the golden leaves with the emerald waters identical. St Moritz Lake

Lake of Wanaka this April, below

I had decided that my top destination this year in Europe was The Dune de Pyla in Arcachon, but I have to say that the Stazersee or Lej de Staz, is almost up there in number one position too. I was lost for words at this sight - not a common occurrence!

I am so grateful to have my sight to fully appreciate this spectacular panorama. Although it was warm in the sun, about 18 degrees, The water was freezing. It was difficult to imagine that we were swimming there two months ago and also amazing to think that I have walked across the lake on snow and ice in early January!
The view from the other side is similar  but has a lovely little crooked pathway leading you to Paradise,!

It was very restful walking through the larch forest, with a fewcyclists flying past but otherwise I was alone with the many finches and blue tits busily feeding, building up their reserves in readiness for winter, and even the occasional woodpecker. It was so peaceful.

I was aiming for the picturesque little 700- year- old church near Celerina, San Gian. It looked like this plane was too! 


 I have passed it so many times, but never visited. Sadly, it was locked but I did get a closer look, also at its lovely graveyard. What a stunning place to come and pay one's last respects to loved ones.

What magical days they were. Despite having seen so many incredible places and sites in the past months, I was still completely blown away by this magnificent area of Switzerland.
Spinas looked very different this morning with the early morning sun lighting up the larches surrounding the hotel. I had had a great stay there and delicious dinner in their cosy wee restaurant. The waiter was from the bakery in Zuoz which had closed, so he recognised me immediately. Nice to see him there.

I was surprised at how mild the temperature was as I left the hotel, much warmer than when I arrived the evening before after the sun had left the valley. I took the path on the other side of the river, a bit longer but much more beautiful, meandering through the golden forests, with not a soul in sight. It was heavenly. I stopped  so often just to try to take in the beauty around me and to watch the nimble  little black squirrels running up and down the tree trunks. They were just too shy to pose for a photo!
After about an hour I was down in the lower part of the valley with this marvelous view back up the valley towards Spinas.

At Bever I turned left on to the Via Engiadina, towards Le Punt. I hadn't done the track before and was thrilled I decided to try it today. The shadows from the little wooden fences cast fantastic patterns on the path. 

The view back towards the Bernina Pass was majestic

As my knees were a little tired, I decided to take a less mountainous way to Le Punt, one which I knew. I also had decided that I was so enjoying the peace and quiet that I would not head to the mountains or Morteratsch because they would be packed.
Instead, I took a fabulous track to some little lakes near Samedan following the river up to them.

I loved these trees, like our pussy willow,  which became really silvery in the sunlight

The lakes and their reflections were perfect, just like the Stazer See had been the day before, but on a much smaller scale. There were only a few people out walking dogs and a fisherman, otherwise I could enjoy the brilliant reflections all alone! Sensational

I had planned to follow the river back to Le Punt, about 3 km away, but because they are making new recreational areas, there was too much work going on, so with weary legs, I went back up hill to walk to Le Punt through the forest. I have been lucky these two days with great decisions. The path was gorgeous and I did not see anyone until I got down to the flat. It was an Italian cyclist, who stopped to ask if he could take a photo of us! Interesting, but I was rather flattered as I thought I was looking particularly haggard after another long walk!

At the end of the walk, a last glance at the 'Nipple Peak' which I had looked out at every day when I was in Madulain, which seems like an eternity ago, but actually only3 months back. 

A fitting end to two incredible days. Exhausted, hungry and thirsty I staggered on to the little red train, staying awake just long enough to farewell Zuoz for 2017.