A sense of freedom

One week has flown by at the camp. What a great team of brilliant teachers, fun people, marvelous friends. The Zuoz village festival, though small, proved a huge success and nearly the entire language team danced the night away. Fantastic evening, probably best ever in 11 years!

After a very wet day yesterday, it was wonderful today to arrive at the top of the spectacular Bernina Pass to perfect weather and a breathtaking view of the Lago Bianco and its glaciers. The colours were amazing.

 

 

The walk down to Diavolezza is breathtakingly beautiful with the colourful mountain slopes , the rocks covered with yellow and green lichen and the river weaving its way down the valley.

 

Add to that the wonderful company of two of my best friends, Dennis and Marc, with fantastically lively and sometimes hilarious discussions.

 

Plus the valley carpeted with pretty alpine flowers.

 

It was a gorgeous day in every possible way! 

Ready for the next week of camp now - second week always busy and sort of sad as half of my team prepare to leave.  Still, we will make the most of the remaining days.

Snow in mid summer

It was forecast to 2000 m but fell to 1800 m. Big thick snowflakes and a very cold night. However, snug in my hut with warm blankets, hat and gloves!

Great view this morning

 Snow has gone from camp but still close!

Here is another of the cute little hobbit houses at sunset the day before yesterday.

So, probably there will be a break now from the blog as the camp starts tomorrow!

 

Beautiful Engadine even in the rain

Imagine waking to this view . What a lucky person I am to be able to see this and to be able to smell the fresh air after the storms. My day was made. 

 

This phenomenum is called the Maloja Snake, a long white cloud which winds its way through the Upper Engadine from the Maloja Pass. It is simply gorgeous.

Add to that the raindrops on the plants and trees - stunning 

 

Unfortunately , you can't see the raindrops, but regardless, the outside of my cabin and the inside  of my door are just wonderful.

I worked a little but I took time to savour this little summer home of mine. For those who do not know this absolutely fantastic place, here are 4 different aspects of the Zuoz centre, all equally lovely.

 

 

 The above picture shows the very pretty village school

 This photo is looking  up towards the ski slopes, where who knows, we may see snow tomorrow - forecast to 2000 metres ans Zuoz is 1800. I am indebted to Tiziana, my local friend and camp coordinator for her extra blankets!

I did manage a walk behind the golf course before being drenched in a torrential downpour, 2 hours earlier than expected😐

 

Looking back at Zuoz, the Lyceum stands out at the back with its stunning orange and yellow buildings.

Calm here now at the campsite,

 

 The snake is back but storms expected later. They were certainly dramatic last night!

Home coming to the Engadine

I nearly expired this morning whilst waiting for the bus to the station - 36 degrees before 9 was just somewhat over the top. Thankfully the trains are comfortable and air conditioned so I had a good journey. It was super to take the Bernina Express back to Madulain, next station to Zuoz, and to see familiar, yet still spectacular sights on the way, such as the Lago Blanco at the top of the pass

 

And of course Morteratsch glacier, just a little hidden.

 

The highlight was still to come - my little hobbit home at Madulain camping

 

Can you believe it, this is where I am staying for 4 nights. I have always wanted to look inside and now here I am cooking, eating, drinking and writing my blog inside.

 

It has a little kitchen, wi fi, a spectacular view until the storm arrived and two very skinny beds. Hope I can sleep! It is super cosy especially with the pitter patter of raindrops - a huge improvement on the thunder and lightning directly overhead an hour ago. Was a bit scary, but I was assured the wine barrel had been around a long time! So what better to do in a wine barrel, drink wine😀

Perfect solution. 

Wine tasting in the Valpolicella hills

Carmen is a sensational opera, even for non opera goers like myself. There is so much  well known music and lots of action. Added to this the unbelievable atmosphere of the vast ancient arena where previously the crowds went to enjoy the spectacle of people dying and where now up to 15000 can enjoy not only opera but, as tonight, pop concerts, etc.

I wa told that there are 220 full time employees only working on the sets, which are removed each day to allow for the next performance to be set up.  I was delighted to see the rocks I had watched being moved yesterday afternoon appearing in the third act.

 

Knowing how many people were required to move each stone, made of wood and some sort of paper mache, it is certainly amazing that they can completely change the set in the 20 minute pause!

This was the beautiful opening set

There were 4 acts in all, so 3 pauses to change sets. An exhausting evening for the builders and sonething that so impressed me. I would love to have been able to watch them working, though I must admit it was fascinating watching the very glamorous people from the stalls moving about - some gorgeous clothes and some which looked extremely uncomfortable and unsuitable for the uneven terrain!

Of course, the singing, costumes, orchestra and tiny new moon were all magical, and my seat was brilliant, facing the stage.

It was hard work getting up at 7.30 after getting to bed at 1.30 but I have had a wonderfully restful day, escaping the heat once again, this time heading to the hills of the Valpolicella region with a wine tour. It is 34 degrees today in Verona and around and apparently it has been around 90 percent humidity which explains how uncomfortable one feels. Air- conditioned tour buses, wine cellars, churches and shady courtyards with cool refreshing drinks are the answer to survival😀

It was a super tour with a couple from America ( yet another couple saying it is a question of voting for the person one thinks is second worst as president!), a couple from Canada, myself and Lara our local guide.

 

We had one wine tasting near the mountain village of San Giorgio and then moved to the next valley to Negrar for lunch and more tasting. Believe it or not, I did not drink much at all apart from water. Too hot, especially for red wine. The meal was delicious - a huge fresh mixed salad, then ravioli filled with pear and veges, exceptionally succulent lamb cutlets from the region and then a light dessert. All very filling and tasty. First time I have seen donkey steak on menu. Apparently very common in this area😐  of course, no worse than eating lamb or any other animal, but I didn't fancy the idea.

Have really enjoyed this city despite the heat. 3 days is enough for me in a city and I have really seen almost everything and enjoyed the theatre and an opera. I love the River Adige  , it is such a focal point.

 

Although I do not often visit churches, I have really found them very special here. Today I visited the last of the four special ancient churches, san Zeno, a very beautiful church made particularly striking by the fantastic warm colours of the facade and stairs. Inside, the convent area is a lovely place to sit and stare 

 

And inside, the bronze doors are quite extraordinary, being a combination of work from unknown artists of different periods. Some of the panels are particularly unusual and it leaves it very  much to the imagination what the artists are saying .

So, back to work now, though I will be enjoying the Engadine Valley too from my little hobbit house in Madulain. 

Verona, beautiful calm but hot!

Time for  an aperol at my friendly little cafe I found yesterday.

. This is how I feel after a long day of sightseeing in this lovly city.

 

i don't know how hot it was midday. I tried to tell myself I was fine but my thermostat definitely did not cope. I was determined to keep hydrated today after definitely feeling the worse for wear yesterday, but it seemed that the  more water I drank, the more I sweated. It poured off me! Believe it or not, after 3 or 4 bottles of water and a wonderfully refreshing mixed fruit cup, i still had no need for a toilet. Possibly just as well, as I saw only one public one with a very long queue. 

I now realise why my landlady stressed the need to visit the churches - brilliantly cool and a refuge from the heat as well as being amazing buildings. The cathedral was definitely outshone by the largest church in Verona, s. Anastasia, with its massive pillars of Veronese marble. It also outdoes the average art gallery with its incredible paintings and ornately painted ceiling. It is probably one of the most beautiful I have seen, with very little gold yet so many other treasures.

Of course a visit to Romeo and Juliet's homes is a must, though Romeo's is very hard to find and only a very graffitied gate, w hereas Juliet's home with statue and of course famous balcony can be found easily ( simply follow the sea of umbrellas leading the tours! ) I found it really amusing by the statue , how both males and females posing for photos with the statue felt it necessary to grab one or even both of her breasts. Weird! 

There were so many gorgeous places to visit and the calm, and again cleanliness, is impressive. How lovely to be in such a busy city with mostly pedestrian areas and virtually no smokers.

I am really looking forward to the opera Carmen and was fascinated to watch the big team calmly working on building the set, presumably for tonight. With only 4 hours to go it looked an impossible task, but I am sure when I take my seat somewhere in this vast arena, all will be in place.

 

 

It is really interesting how they simply leave the sets sitting outside the arena  for the public to enjoy. I guess they are fairly sure the weather will be fine. Here the Aida set. 

 

Last night the modernised version of Julius Caesar in the ancient Roman Thestre was great. At first I struggled to understand, especially as the play bore little ressemblance to what we had studied in school, but I tuned in and enjoyed it more and more. Was a beautiful balmy evening and fabulous atmosphere. I felt a bit scruffy, as people really wear very glamorous clothes for an outdoor play. Personally I go for functional anti- mosquito, later warm clothing. It will be interesting to see if tonight is the same.

My room is much better than I thought. It seemed a bit dreary when I arrived but that is just because the curtains are closed to keep out the sun. It was really comfortable and we got a great breakfast in the room. Will be good tomorrow as I need to leave early for the wine tour. Looking forward to seeing the hills surrounding Verona, and of course tasting some wines. I am sure I will be hopeless after wine at lunchtime. 😐

So now my buffet anti pasto, part of the E 5.5. for the Aperol Spritz. Enough for my dinner in this heat. Perfect.

 

Happy travels

Well, I loved Limone and all about it, but the lasting impression was absolutely due to the people and the cleanliness. I splashed out on a little electric taxi ride up the hill to the bus. Very smiley man who raced around the corners with obvious pleasure. The bus driver was one of the most careful, courteous  drivers I have ever had. I sat at the front ( very brave for me) and thoroughly enjoyed our journey through narrow, winding tunnels with occasional views to the Garda See and then the trip through many of the pretty villages I had seen from the boat. Bus on time, clean and comfortable. 

 

Now waiting at Desenzano station. Super clean, and pristine and free public toilets along with whistling, singing cleaner who was thrilled to hear that this was one of, if not , the cleanest stations I have visited - some of the British stations were possibly on a par.

 

Hope Verona will have such friendly, happy people and will be as beautiful as I have been led to believe. 

Arrived safely. It is 'stinking hot' as my mum used to say. I knew it would be but it is really tough to walk around. I spent first hour orienting myself to a big city. Think I am better suited to villages ! Have been drinking and drinking, non acoholic, all day, but am still thirsty.  Have been enjoying the people watching in particular. Quite amazing couples walking past in pedestrian streets, which still allow bikes and mopeds, which zoom along deftly weaving at high speed through the meandering tourists. The other noticeable thing is the number of women wearing white, and really white, dresses. A fantastic advert for whatever washing powder they use! I wouldnt last a minute in white , I am afraid 😀.

Staying in a residence which is close to the Adige river and old city.

 

Great location.  Room perhaps poorest so far but will be out a lot. Tonight I am going to a modern version of Julius Caesar in an ancient Roman Theatre just a few minutes from here. Should be an incredible experience even if I dont understand a lot. Have been speaking Italian all day, so hoping for the best. Tomorrow I have an opera to look forward to, Carmen, and I have booked a wine tour with lunch for Sunday, so I have a great variety of wonderful things to look forward to. Think it will be an early night Sunday🙂

Hope to look around Verona tomorrow after a lie in.

Garda see

Now sitting with a much needed tea waiting to return to Limone . It has been incredibly hot, so can't wait to get in the lake when I get home. 

I amvery happy to think I am staying in one of the best places on the lake. I nearly changed to Sirmione through recommendation, but so pleased I didn't. Much too busy and also no nearby mountains. Limone is so much more dramatic and Sirmione more upmarket perhaps. It did have a very pretty harbour area with magnificent trees.

 

The day was super. I took the slow boat down the lake, calling at most of the lakeside villages on the Limone side. They are all very attractive, some with some very majestic hotels!

 

In the north the  backdrop of mountains is really spectacular whereas further south things flatten out. As we left Limone early this morning there was some low cloud over the hills above this picturesque village of Malcesine 

 

Very mystical! 

 

It would be nice to see them clearly on the way back.

So, home now and the journey back was breathtakingly beautiful, with great light. Here a couple of shots plus the above photo now!

 

I think I prefer the mystical look, though both impressive. Here is the village of Malcevine but showing the very majestic castle 

 

There is no doubt for me that I prefer the northern end of the lake with its awesome mountains, cliffs and colourful towns.

Q

 

Great day, off for a dip. 

Paradise - Limone sul Garda

As my journey continues, I cannot believe that places continue to appear more and more incredible. This time I am travelling alone for the first time more or less since I started my travels in May, and yet it is still as fantastic, and being alone gives me more chance to talk to locals and practise my languages. I am sitting beside the lake watching the boats returning after their day around the Garda See. This will be me tomorrow.

I have to say that the more I travel, the more I wish the media would give us a more positive picture of the world. Of course there are dreadful things happening in so many places, but one tends to get lost in this and ignore the wonderful places, people and natural beauty that there is. As I travelled from Bolzano to Limone sul Garda today I so appreciated the amazing scenery all along the way, the people chatting happily around me and the cleanliness of a country subject to a poor reputation in this regard. Bus on time, driver careful and calm, bus pristine and air- conditioned. The moment we started to descend to Riva del Garda was incredible. What spectacular scenery ! 

 

I must admit to having had  a moment of wondering how on earth I would get to my destination, seeing the cliffs plunging into the lake below. Thank goodness for tunnels!

i don't know what I had expected, but this place really ticks all the boxes. My hotel is in a great location by the lake, close to the boat departure point and public beach, which I really enjoyed this evening, the water being a really pleasant 22 or so degrees. I do not have a room with a view, but I will only use it to sleep and shower. It is cool, the most important point. Though it is a pleasant 28 during the day and a really lovely 20 tonight. Perfect weather.

 

My hotel is in the right of the photo so you can see how pretty it is. Even the town car park is a mass of trees in full bloom. All the time the mountains toeer above you. It is super impressive and yet at the same time tranquil and pretty. 

 

So here I am , writing between courses. I have taken a 4 course degustation menu, which so far has been delicious, accompanied by live music and setting sun! Lots of ducks begging too ! They are doing pretty well.

Here is my first course of lake trout - i can see future meals swimming around just metres away . Little do they know , 

luckily.

 

Have just had a snall taster of the most delicious spaghetti and lemon sauce.  After the meal I must hurry round to a bar which is showing the Welsh Portugal soccer. Go Wales 😀

Hone after the match. Well done Wales despite loss. They never lost the respect of all who were watching and the fans too did them proud. I feel proud to be half Welsh 🙂

Zuoz to Bolzano

What a beautifully relaxed day I have had starting with the spectacular scenery in the Ofen Pass 

 

and simply enjoying the fertile and lush Vintschgau Valley , with its many impressive castles and cute little churches way up in the hills . The religious followers have to be mvery dedicated to climb about 200 metres or more to church.

 

 

The blast of hot air hit me as I exited the station at Bolzano. I somehow hadn't expected it because temperatures in Mals were very pleasant. What a difference to the last time I was in Bolzano in late autumn with Annie, my sister. It was pretty chilly then and a lot of places were closed. 

Sadly, the Ritten cable car had been closed and although we took a bus to the top , we arrived in thick fog and saw nothing. This next photo is especially for my sister because we talked about the earth  Pyramids and today after a very scenic and long cable car ride , pretty train ride and a lovely forest walk, I saw them. Really impressive, especially with the Dolomites in the background. Fabulous.

 

For those who want to read about them in one or more languages, here is the explanation

 

I had a wonderful hour sitting at a cafe at the top of the cable car. Very relaxed with my Aperol Spritz. Really brilliant sky - sinister black clouds to the left ( thunder rumbling) and sky clearing over the distant mountains to the right. As I took the cable car down, the light got even better. It was really a sensational trip down. It is a very impressive trip spanning some incredibly deep valleys and with breathtaking views of the Dolomites ( I saw them in the way up without he black curtain of cloud.

 

Ending with this just before arriving in Bolzano.

 

Lucky me !, i was very happy that the storm stayed away. I had almost convinced myself I should take a bus down, but told myself off for being so cowardly. Pleased I did.