I was very sad to have to leave the Orkneys already. We had seen and explored a huge area in the short time, but we could have spent much longer in each place and there are still many treasures we did not get to. Still, all the more reason to return. Just as I reduce my bucket list slightly, it starts to grow again! Before we left, we stopped to photograph what appeared to be a pig/ sheep cross!
Actually it is a Mangalitza pig, from Hungary! This is Peter. He was very friendly, striding up to see us, obviously hoping for a treat!
Although it was pretty windy in Kirkwall before we left, I was thrilled to be able to enjoy a really calm crossing back to the Mainland of Scotland. Sadly not with the company of the gannets, but much more pleasant conditions in general.
Getting off at Gill's Bay, we were about to embark on the longest drive of the trip, without a doubt the most spectacular and varied, and the most frustrating because we had to get to Ullapool in the evening, meaning that a trip which could easily take days with hundreds of stops to savour the stunning surroundings had to be completed in 8 hours. This meant relatively few stops and having to be satisfied with admiring the breathtaking scenery for a very fleeting moment from the minibus. I had opted to ride in the jump seat at the front. Michael describes it quite rightly as the best and worst seat. Of course, I had the best and most expansive views of the wonderful scenery but the seat at the front is very uncomfortable long- term. Along with that, a scaredy cat like me struggles with cornering rather fast on one- lane roads with blind corners, with the knowledge that there were sheep roaming freely all around.
The sheep here are quite different from NZ sheep in that they stand still when you want to photograph them and stare at the camera! They also seem to know how to cross the roads safely. I saw one at the side of the street looking both ways before crossing. Very well trained!
The drivers are all very courteous too and really use the passing lanes well, so that despite having so much single- lane road, traffic moves freely and rapidly! As can be seen, it was not jam- packed with traffic. Most of the cars coming towards us were actually Classic Cars, so rather distracting to Michael who evidently found them fascinating.
The ever- changing landscape was fantastic, round every corner something new. No time ever to get bored with the view. Here the majestic Loch Hope near Durness and some rather lovely Gaelic translations.
Tucked in along the coast was Smoo Cave, an old smuggler's cave which has been made easily accessible. It was really well worth the walk down.
Here the view from the top towards the cave, which had a very pretty waterfall cascading down into it.
Only a little further along the coast was one of the numerous golden sand beaches with its backdrop of dunes. So enticing, but most of the year , like those in the south of England, unfortunately a bit too chilly to spend too much time on.
Then, mountainous areas with bogs and moors and pretty little tarns surrounded by heather or in other areas by peat, which as in Ireland is no longer harvested commercially.
Around a few more corners and this phenomenal view over the Assynt mountains
Of course, you cannot usually go a day in Scotland without a castle, and today was no exception. How lovely to wander down to the beautiful Loch Assynt to view the ruined Ardvreck Castle, dating back to the late 15 th century. Silhouetted against the fabulous sunset, it looked a perfect setting for a film.
Weary travellers were suddenly wide awake as we were treated to the grand finale of the day, sunset over the spectacular mountain peaks and tranquil lochs just outside Ullapool.. The end of a long, yet marvelous journey.
It was time to say 'goodbye' to Michael our tour guide and half of our fellow passengers. They are heading back to Edinburgh and we will continue on to the Outer Hebrides with a new guide in two days. Hopefully the next five days will be as much fun and be as fantastic as the last five!
So, here we are in the Gaelic- speaking area of Scotland. Once more, the most important word to know!
After six near perfect days so far it was incredible to wake up to another perfect day. Apparently it has rained pretty much constantly here in the past weeks, so we were unbelievably lucky to see this view from the harbour early this morning. What a paradise.
We got down to the booking office as soon as it opened and were lucky enough to get two of the last six seats on a boat trip around the little islands in Loch Broom for the afternoon. It couldn't have been better because it gave us the morning free to explore this very picturesque little fishing village with its rows of white houses looking out to sea. The very helpful and cheerful young lady in the Tourist Office( who we later saw waitressing!)recommended a walk to me which she suggested would take about one hour. I think she must be a champion sprinter! Later we read about the walk in a guide book, which said 2.5 hours! Anyway, I am very pleased I did it. It was wonderful.
After a pretty walk by what must be one of the loveliest campsites, I found myself on a gorgeous riverside path, which could easily have been the West Coast of New Zealand. Forest, ferns, mosses and river.
It was heavenly and I enjoyed the solitude and tranquility immensely.
Following directions, I made my way up the hill above the village. I was not properly prepared for the mud, nor for the long walk. Stupidly I had no water and I had not told anyone where I was. Not like me at all! At times, I was tempted to turn back as the going got more difficult and the mud deeper. Just as I nearly gave up, I thought I could see a glimpse of the village and ended up ankle deep in mud to get to the lookout point. I am so glad I did!
What a spectacular view of Ullapool and Loch Broom along with a real feeling of satisfaction.
Fortunately, the path down was much better and I even met a couple of others on the track!
Time to set off with Guni on the afternoon cruise to the Summer Isles. It was brilliant from start to finish. It could not have been better at all.
Though the real highlight was the huge school/ pod of dolphins which entertained us for probably half an hour with the diving, the somersaults and the pure gracefulness. It was a phenomenal show!
There are many little uninhabited islands on the loch, which goes out into the Minch, the sea separating the Outer Hebrides from the Mainland. Actually, Uninhabited by man but there were lots of seals and sea birds of course.
What a lovely way to spend the afternoon. I really felt I had made the absolute most of the day in this gorgeous place.
I wondered how often people had the chance to see such perfect refections and such an incredibly clear blue sky. It is certainly quite rare, althou, like on our West Coast, the winters can be fantastic here.
So, tomorrow we will leave on the two- hour ferry crossing to Stornaway.
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