What a day of archaeological wonders, spectacular landscape, cool but calm weather with a fair share of sunshine, and plenty of wildlife, especially seals! As I write this, I can hardly believe how much we took in today, without seeming to rush. Of course, I could have stayed much longer everywhere, but then we would have missed out on unforgettable experiences somewhere along the line.
These many tiny islands of the Orkneys, only 50 miles south of Greenland where I was around this time last year, have so many archaeological sites and so much history, it is mind- blowing. I have never been super interested in history, but what we saw, read and heard today really is intriguing and really makes you want to find out more.
It was really a full day, starting with a visit to Maeshowe, thought to be one of the best preserved burial chambers in Western Europe, about 4800 years old. The history was really brought to life by one of the funniest guides I have ever met, Robert. He was from England and had such a dry sense of humour, at times making it tricky to sort out fact from joke!
The entrance to the tomb was very narrow and low, so we really had to virtually double up to get in. It was rather claustrophobic but well worth the discomfort. Unfortunately, photos were not allowed, though a real impression of the inside of this large cairn burial chamber could not be created in a photo. What clever people they were so many thousands of years ago to have built this chamber!
One highlight of the tomb is the many pieces of viking graffiti on the walls. I wonder if people will be looking at our graffiti in thousands of years' time!
The other highlight, and probably the one which stole the show, was the swallows' nest tucked into the neatly stacked rows of stones used to build the tomb. In the nest, just above the guide's head, were 4 'extremely well-educated' tiny chicks waiting very impatiently for their parents to return. The guide asked us to keep the tiny entrance clear so they could come in. Sure enough, 5 minutes into the talk, the chicks started to make such a noise that Robert had to stop talking, and the parents returned to feed the chicks. Unfortunately, they could not get out because their way was blocked, and in their panic, they pooed on poor Robert! Once we had all left, the parents also followed us out. I was sad to hear that the chicks will probably be deserted in about two weeks when the parents will migrate, leaving their fledglings to fend for themselves.
Once outside, we could once again focus on the marvelous colours of the countryside around us. These hay bales are just so beautiful - like giant Weetbix, one of the group said!
Throughout the islands are many stone circles but the most remarkable one is ' The Standing Stones of Stenness', supposedly older than Stonehenge and with absolutely gigantic stones leaving you asking how on earth such monsters could have been brought here and erected, plus stood up against the elements for so many thousands of years.
Forming a Unesco Heritage site are four very special Neolithic sites, Maesthowe, the tomb, the Standing Stones of Stenness pictured above and two others which we were yet to see.
Next one was to be the Ring of Brodgar, an absolutely breathtakingly huge stone circle, set amidst fantastic landscape. It is stunningly beautiful - my photo cannot do it justice at all. Once again it is around 4500 years old and the 27 remaining stones cover a huge area, 8500 square metres! It is truly mind- boggling! It would have been wonderful to have been able to perch on a mound to simply sit and wonder at them. Instead, I will view my photos at leisure! Not quite the same atmosphere as being there, though.
Last but not least of the four sites is the incredible Skara Brae. As the day went on, it seemed impossible that we could possibly better the things we had seen previously, but Skara Brae just ticked all the boxes!
Firstly, the location was stunningly beautiful with lovely sweeping sandy beaches
With very creative cairns, showing that even modern day man can build and design pretty well
Once again, there is a long list of superlatives attached to Skara Brae, one being that it is the finest Stone Age village in Western Europe, though it will soon be surpassed by its near neighbour, the Ness of Brodgar, which is currently being excavated and covers a massive 6.2 acres! The incredible thing is that Skara Brae was only discovered in 1850 after storms washed away the dunes which had covered it up for thousands of years. I spent the day wondering how many other remarkable sites there must be under the grassy mounds everywhere!
What a fantastic trip into the past it was, to walk through this village, viewing the rooms from above. It was fascinating to try to imagine what the people must have looked like and how life was, and of course why they had left?
The breathtaking scenery drew me down on to the beach below. To me, this was equally as awesome as the Stone Age village. It was so calm on the beach and the colours of the seaweed so vibrant. I would have loved to have spent the day there actually.
Above is the magnificent panorama , and below a closer look at the seaweedy pavement at one end of the bay. It was really very special.
It appeared that we must have finished for the day, but no, we still had yet other treats in store, perhaps considered a little less important, but I must say for me just as amazing, especially the scenery, which I found truly spectacular due to the exceptional colours. The late afternoon light was simply magical.
We crossed a causeway to a grassy island where there were the remains of a Norse settlement, , probably belonging to the very wealthy Earl of Thorfinn's home, about 900 years old . Maybe this was much younger than the previous prehistoric monuments, but nonetheless it was fantastic.
The light could not have been better. We had been so incredibly lucky to have had such exceptional weather here. In the rain, I think it would have been a miserable experience even with such unique places to visit.
Had we finished? No! We had time for just one more wonder, and it really was fabulous, the Broch of Gurness, a wonderful example of an Iron Age settlement surrounded by a village belonging to the Picts, about 2400 years ago. Once again, it was not only the buildings which were so magnificent but also the outstanding backdrop.
What an end to a marvelous, unforgettable day. I am so pleased to have my blog, which tonight has taken me hours, but which has helped me to relive the day now and will hopefully in years to come I bring these memorable moments to life once again.
Back to Kirkwall, the capital of the Mainland, and to a lovely finale, with very special light on the little harbour here.
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