Tuesday, October 10, 2017

Arcachon

It was certainly a pity to be leaving Bordeaux after 2 days. We had seen a lot but there was plenty more. Anyway, 3 days in Arcachon was a super choice. It is even more restful here than in Bordeaux, which means you totally switch off here. There is still masses to see and do but loads of time, like now,  to sit and stare and write my blog. Only the sound of gulls, children playing in the distance, and a vast expanse of salt marsh ahead of me, with egrets elegantly wading through the exceedingly low tidal waters.

One might say, there is nothing to see, but I am really enjoying this somewhat lonesome, untouched space. Just around the corner are the little canals where the dozens of oyster fishermen have their pretty wee boat sheds and often rather fragile looking ladders to access their boats. 

It is Sunday, so there is absolutely nobody around the canals. Only the locals are visiting the many attractive oyster restaurants, which are often hidden by all the oyster nets. Bit smelly by the restaurants, but if you like oysters ( sadly I do not) , this is the place to be!


We train- hopped to the next little village, La Hume,  where the salt marshes had almost disappeared and the houses and boatsheds all looked much more manicured, there were no more fishing boats but rather expensive yachts instead, and the golden beaches seemed endless!

Anyway, I have  jumped a bit, preferring to describe where I was sitting to write.. Now I am back at our very cute, basic but very comfortable little appartment, just right for us. I really love the fact we have a little garden area for breakfast and lunch, even if there is no view. We even have an inquisitive, but rather bored neighbour!

First thing you tend to notice in Arcachon is the wonderful expanse of golden sands with virtually nobody there at this time of year. Amazing!
Of course, my eyes were drawn to the ' no diving' notice. Rather strange considering that there was only sand all around and even at high tide, the water is twenty metres away! Perhaps they meant to put the notice at the end of the pier?

Anyway, it was gorgeous and the sea very inviting. If I hadn't had a bit of a cold, I would have been in there swimming rather than simply paddling.  Mind you,the sand is incredibly soft and deep and tricky to walk on. It took incredible energy to walk across the beach to the water!

With such spectacular weather for the entire stay, we were able to get out on the water one morning with the catamaran. Although we had the sail up, we did use the motor. Shame! It was a brilliant trip with just perfect conditions and only 60 people on board, on a boat which can take 260 ! It was marvelous because we could move around freely for the best views.

The main object of the trip was to see the Ile des Oiseaux, island of the birds. Actually, we didn't see so many birds close up, rather seeing huge flocks in the distance, possibly migrating. What we did see a lot of were oyster beds. Apparently 90 percent of European oysters come from this Arcachon Basin. There are kilometres of beds all around the island. It looked spectacular.

On the far bay we got close enough to view some of the million-euro homes with their fancy yachts. Hopefully they feel as happy as I do!

It was a really good tour and after lunch we set off on foot, following the suggested pedestrian scenic route. It was great, and we walked for several hours seeing many of the very special older villas in the Ville d'hiver and enjoying the cool of the many pine forests.

Then, the main reason why I had returned to Arcachon, the Dune de Pyla, or Pilat. This absolutely unbelievably beautiful dune , the highest in Europe at 110 metres, is in every sense of the word breathtaking. Nothing can describe that feeling when you have clambered up the 100 plus steps and go to the first peak - On one side forests and on the other the dunes, stretching for kilometres ahead, and of course the emerald blue waters of the Arcachon Basin. It is awesome.

Taking a picnic up there was a great idea. Where in the world could one dine with a better view than this! 

We would have loved to walk further along, but the effort involved to walk on that deep soft sand is unbelievable. My knees certainly struggled somewhat.
The sun started to sink, lighting up the sandbanks. It was really an unforgettable evening.

Unfortunately, we had to head down before the best of the sunset occurred because we needed to take the last bus. It was quite tough getting down again so we had to leave plenty of time. It was a perfect evening and en route to the town, we could see the bands of deep red and orange on the horizon. The sky seemed to be on fire.

We took the lottle panoramic train the next day to explore further the residential areas of Arcachon, - very interesting too! The winter town is made up of about 300 beautiful villas, built in the late 1800 s to create a sanatorium for the wealthy bankers, doctors and businessmen. Now, the villas have been divided up into appartments but still retain their glamorous appearance.

Arcachon does boast some quite unique boutiques and shops and, of course, dozens of restaurants, not totally lacking in humour 

After three wonderful days in this stunning place, it was time to have a farewell drink at the beach, watching the sun go down. 

Perfect!😀

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