Hanmer and the wild West Coast

One thing I found very hard to do during our entire trip was to leave the beautiful places we had been staying! Luckily, it did not take very long for the spectacular new scenery, people and places to kick in.

Arrival in Hanmer is always impressive as one stops to look down at the beautiful Waiau River. There are photos of this river when I visited with Peter on one of the February blogs, but this time autumn had come and this was our first, but certainly not last, taste of gold.

What lovely lighting to arrive to! Hanmer has really taken off in a very small but well managed way. The hot pools there are just heavenly, particularly due to the incredible views of the surrounding forest-clad mountains and the unbelievably clear skies. We were spoilt by the exceptional night skies in most of the places we visited, with the billions of stars, the clear Milky Way and the occasional shooting star. So few people around, so virtually no pollution!

It was fantastic to have a cottage at a campground just outside the village of Hanmer, nestled in amongst the trees. What lovely memories I have of that place because we used to camp there frequently with the kids. Our little cottage was so well equipped and very cosy.

The Lindis Pass, linking Hanmer to the West Coast is a very easy pass but also spectacularly beautiful. Of course it goes without saying that the road is a winding road with lots of ups and downs and this time, due to closure of State Highway 1 north of Kaikoura, it was a bit busier than usual until the junction of roads to the north and to the west.  The scenery quickly changed from wide river valleys with lots of golden tussock to dramatic river gorges, the most impressive being the overhang at Buller Gorge.

Suddenly we were heading towards the rain forest of the west, and a touch of moisture, only to be expected where there is rain forest!! We were pretty lucky though because we had probably only one hour of rain to contend with on our entire trip!! We were also incredibly fortunate to be at the gorge quite early in the afternoon, just 2 hours before a big crash there which caused multiple injuries and closed the road for 6 hours.

It was fantastic to visit the seal colony at Cape Foulwind near Westport once again. This breeding colony of seals is always a delight to view, especially in April when there are masses of seal pups playing in the rock pools, practising their fighting skills, suckling from their mothers and frolicking in the sometimes pretty rough waves which pound against the rocks there.

We had a very rainy end to the trip with a downpour lasting about 30 minutes just as we wanted to unpack at our lovely home, Paua Palace, belonging to Tine a friend and teacher colleague of mine in Zuoz. What a gorgeous, quirky place this is, and what a setting!!Here the view from just outside the house (the next morning!!!).

We were really so lucky with the weather. It was hard to believe that after the previous night's storm we would wake to this cloudless blue sky, and as a result NO pesky sandflies at all!! They do not appear to like fine weather, which was fortunate for us!!

Punakaiki, along with Kaikoura and Wanaka, is a favourite of mine. I could happily spend many days or weeks there. It has a magic and charm which are simply indescribable.

It is not difficult to appreciate how rugged and how breathtakingly beautiful and wild this place is. In the other direction, looking back towards Punakaiki, it is really special too, and best of all, we were able to enjoy it completely alone!

Dear old Ken, my car (registration Ken911), looked quite lonely there! I have to say it was more fun driving around all the bends in the daylight than the previous evening in the dark and rain.

Next stop another old favourite of mine, Truman's Track. We so enjoyed the magnificent walk through rain forest ( glowworms at night) to one of the most gorgeous beaches I know.

How stunning it looked in the early morning light, as the tide began to creep in. You have to take care there because it is fun to walk across the beach to the cliffs

but you always have to watch out !!

The waves can be truly massive, even on the calmest day!

No visit to Punakaiki,  in my mind,  is complete without a walk up the magnificent Pororari Gorge. It is heaven on Earth and fortunately not visited by too many tourists,. This place is truly special and gives you such an incredible feeling of remoteness. Here the fresh air, the lush vegetation,

the sound of the water on the rapids and the dulcet songs of the bellbirds in the trees, all add up to the perfect experience.

Not to mention the wonderful smaller things you can find if you look around you carefully

Oh, how I wish I had a great camera at times!! What a magical place.

Of course, the biggest tourist attraction at Punakaiki is this:-

Pancake Rocks. An absolutely fascinating place with the most stunning views. Whether you see it by day or by night, it is bound to impress. For me, the rocks at sunset say it all!

And as the sun goes down over the horizon

and the waves pound the rocks , thrusting up huge sprays through some of the blowholes there

couples can simply sit and stare and enjoy one of nature's most beautiful spectacles.

Kaikoura, seals and scenery

It was fantastic to once again hit the road towards Kaikoura.
You just can't get away from those selfies when you are in a car !

Our lunch stop was at one of my favourite wineries, Pegasus Bay, in Waipara.  The weather was pleasantly warm and although most chose to stay indoors, we thoroughly enjoyed the massive garden all to ourselves, with the most delicious platter of antipasto imagineable - colourful, tasty and really different. It didn't matter at all that we had no wine. The water was marvelous!

These blogs will have somewhat of a toilet and poster theme. We noticed some really great toilet signs during our trip.

and some great posters I could relate to!

All good things have to come to an end and so we left the winery paradise and continued on our way. The previous week there had been floods and rock slides throughout NZ and also in the Kaikoura area, so sadly the beautiful coastal road was shut once again - those poor workers have a never-ending job trying to keep it open. Even the Inland road had been closed due to flooding and slides, but they had done a brilliant job to open it.

You certainly did not get the feeling that you wanted to hang around in some areas! However, I felt very safe (not sure about Dennis?). The road is stunningly beautiful with a very curvy, undulating road (and I don't mean the undulations caused by the earthquakes!) The road no longer has the number of roadworks which we had seen in February, so most of the trip could be done at 50 kph and not 30 kph. It still gave us time to enjoy the spectacular colours of the tussock grass covering the hillsides and to watch huge flocks of sheep being taken up to the hills, driven by only a couple of sheepdogs - amazing.

Kaikoura is now bustling again thankfully and it was great to see so many tourists there. As we found last time, it does not look like a town hit by a 7.8 earthquake. Most places are open, the road is pretty good and the seals were back in abundance

some up close and personal.

The only real sign of action was when this chap needed to have a pee. Clever guy wriggled his way to the edge of the boardwalk and peed under it!!!Very sensible indeed. He didn't seem at all worried that he had several tourists taking photos of him as he did this.

The next morning, I got woken pretty early by what seemed to be an incredible volume of traffic for a place which is cut off to the north. Anyway, rather than lie in bed feeling a bit brassed off at the rude awakening, I saw that the sun was rising and made the most of this gorgeous time of day. The colours were so exceptional and the solitude made everything seem even more special.

My version of a selfie!!!

As the sun rose, everything was bathed in the warm orange and golden rays. It was awesome. I did wonder whether I should go back and haul Dennis out of his room, but decided against this. Down at the seal colony, sleepy seals were totally unphased by the early bird tourist paparazzi!

Dennis was fortunate enough to see all the seals I had seen earlier, but missed the exceptional sunrise. Never mind, the landscape there is so incredible, that it does not really matter what time of day you turn up.

We headed up the hill to an unforgettably breathtaking view of the coastal area.

Next time I must walk round the peninsular, now that I know that the pathway has reopened.  There were hundreds of seals dotted around. Just like old times! This walkway is, in my opinion, one of the most spectacular ones you can do, and very few people seem to know about it. You just have to check the tides very carefully as there are areas you can be cut off by the tide and some places where you almost have to step over seals to get round the corner!

It was fantastic to share one of my favourite places with such a wonderful friend.

We had a brilliant one-night stay in Kaikoura. Too short, but we certainly packed a lot in and saw some fantastic sights. What a perfect start to our trip!

Christchurch awakes and I celebrate another year of amazing life with family and close friends from home and afar! Perfection!

I looked with horror to see that my last blog was way back in March and rushed to do at least the first for April and , I don't know how, lost it!!! I think I forgot to press save in my rush to publish it. So, I will have to start again. Never mind, I get to enjoy the pictures and memories yet again!!

It was a brilliant month full of action in the house and garden, in the city and on the road with family and friends. In fact, it was just superb.  Plenty of Airbnbs in the early weeks and then David came up for a week just as Dennis arrived from Switzerland. It was perfect to celebrate my birthday with them and of course Mark and Emma and also some of my closest friends. Even Annie, my neighbour's dog, who has already featured in my blogs!

In the garden, there has been a lot going on and my handyman, Chris, has really worked his magic on my front garden, which was really a mess.

Before, once the old plants and  bushes had been cleared

and after he had planted mostly native plants

You can't see them so well, but I will take another photo of the plants nicely tucked in and protected by the beautiful fallen leaves from my maple tree once my drive is clear of all the vans belonging to the workmen putting in my new bathroom downstairs, whilst I write.  Really freezing in the house with all the doors open, but I am well layered with Merino!!! Hopefully I will soon have some pictures of the finished room.

It was great to get all the garden finished before Dennis arrived and we set off around Christchurch and then the South Island. It was so good to see him again - and so the selfies started!!

Actually, it was a pity he missed the opening of the Arts Centre to the first market since the quakes. Millions of dollars have already been poured into this beautiful place and millions will be poured into the rest which is gradually opening up, with life returning.

What a gorgeous day it was. The weather really played its part and the people were so excited and delighted to be back in this very special place again. Hopefully by spring, the market will be a regular occurrence at weekends. The Great Hall pictured at the back has been magnificently restored and housed dozens of top class craft stalls.

It was special to be able to at last go into the next quadrangle, which has only recently opened, and to stand beneath the huge beech tree overlooking the lawns where we so often used to enjoy concerts.

In the background there used to be a wonderful cafe, Annies, but I believe that this is now going to be the new Arthouse Movie centre, with 3 small theatres. Brilliant. I can't wait!

In the centre, life is also returning. Not to the poor old Cathedral, but to the square, where there are lively markets on Fridays, with food stalls and music from buskers. A real buzz, which is generally missing during the week.

What a mess the Cathedral is. It is crumbling away whilst politicians, insurers and bishops discuss its future. Oh for a referendum!!

In contrast, the temporary Cardboard cathedral looks great and is being well used.

Keeping Dennis awake on his first night in NZ was not difficult at the rugby - a big learning curve for him, but he seemed to enjoy it, starting with the famous Crusader horses

Don't be fooled by the empty seats. It filled up for the match against the Japanese team. Crusaders winning their 7th in a row.

Dennis, David and I enjoyed touring the city enormously. Despite all the empty areas, construction sites and damaged buildings waiting for insurers to make up their minds, it has so much to offer. The Gardens in autumn are magnificent - although I find them amazing all year round, I must admit.

I love this sign for one of the many elderly trees there. What a nice way to say it is old and falling apart!!

Just across the road from the Gardens is a place most tourists do not visit unless they love cricket, but I love it because I find it remarkable that we have a national cricket ground, where international matches are played , completely open to the public when there is no match fixture. The views from the top of the surrounding grass terraces are fabulous, especially with such incredible weather!

In the distance the hills and there the sad sight of the damage caused by the forest fires.

They were pretty devastating and it will take a while to have the hills looking quite so beautiful as before, but it serves as a reminder that we can never take anything for granted!

Our trip took us to the sea - especially with the brilliant weather we had. I have not been on the pier since I got back in such perfectly warm weather with absolutely no wind. It was great to be able to wear a sun hat and to keep it on!!! Usually you just about get blown off the end of the pier, but this time it was hot!!!

Thanks to David, we also went to Sumner Beach which I haven't visited for years. I loved it! What a super place. By late afternoon the clouds had come in but this really added to the atmosphere of the beach, especially with the last silvery rays of sun lighting up the patterns on the sand.

We could still enjoy sitting on the terrace of one of the beach-side cafes in the late evening sun.

Then it was time to set off for our 10-day trip around part of the South Island. How lucky I am that Mark and David built and stained my new deck. David did the staining while I was away, so it was fantastic to return to this completed deck, with a stain which blends perfectly with the autumnal leaves in my garden.

What a paradise!! Dennis frequently used this expression during his stay and he is right. I am proud to call such a breathtakingly beautiful place  'home'.

Wanaka with David and return to Christchurch

What a lovely trip it was from Invercargill to Wanaka.  I decided on the central route via Alexandra and the fruit growing areas to avoid the heavier traffic around Queenstown. It was a great idea.  I think I saw on average 6 cars per hour outside towns and villages. It gave me time to drive at a decent speed but still enjoy the stunning beauty of Central with its golden rolling hills, gorges and rivers. Around  the Clutha Dam the blue of the hydro lakes was a perfect match to my little Ken!!

Wanaka, as beautiful as ever. How I love this place! I always have, from the very first trip I did with Jim in 1976. Luckily, although it is now a tourist destination, it has not been spoilt as much as Queenstown and there are still wide open spaces and it never seems too crowded except at New Year and Easter. This single tree in the photo below has become iconic and is in every tourist brochure and Wanaka booklet, thus making it a MUST for wedding photos!

Boating safety is paramount around this area and even the dogs have some pretty fancy life jackets!

For years the family have been fortunate enough to stay at Edgewater, this beautiful complex by the lake and with its own little lake right in front of our bedroom unit. What a paradise!

It was fantastic to walk with David from the picturesque Glendhu Bay along the relatively new walkway which allows splendid views of Mount Aspiring. Clouds shrouded the peaks at times, but the beaches in the foreground with the masses of fabulous driftwood, the lake and the foothills, still made for breathtaking scenery.

I just had to go out early one morning as the sun rose to marvel at this serene and magnificent view over the lake to Aspiring. Soft pastel colours, not a puff of wind, and absolutely nobody around. Perfections plus!

At the other end of the day the view from Wanaka beach was equally spectacular and once again the soft pastel colours were restful and beautiful.

Next morning, I could not resist an early morning walk once again to THE TREE. It is rare nowadays  to see it without someone standing beside it, so this shot will be treasured. What a gorgeous place.

Despite the fact that we do the walk along the River Clutha every time we go to Wanaka and although I have taken so many hundreds of photos of the unbelievable colours of the trees and water, I could not resist taking more, much to David's amusement!!

Totally irresistible, isn't it?

Sadly, all good things must come to an end and it was time to do the 500 kilometres back to Christchurch through the lake districts of the South Island.  So many people think that NZ an Switzerland are similar, but I realised that even the lake areas are completely different due to the lack of vegetation and habitation. Lake Pukaki with Mount Cook in the distance looked marvelous.

It was a brilliant road trip, with plenty of kilometres and a mass of memorable places to visit and company to enjoy! I can't wait for the next trip - probably  with Dennis in April :)